For Husband’s birthday, I treated us to dinner at Cyrus, a two-Michelin star restaurant located in Healdsburg.
I don’t know what took me so long to finally dine here.
It wasn’t very long after we sat down that we were given yummy little canapés to nibble on.

The interior reads very “hotel restaurant,” meaning kind of generic taupe-y ambiance sans cheesy red roses in tacky vases (Campton Place, I’m looking at you).
Anyway, it would appear that Cyrus has too jumped on the bubble bandwagon. You have some kind of liquid, you throw in some sodium-something-or-other compound and little globs form. I believe this one was some kind of blueberry liquid. It was delightful, the fruity goodness burst thick and almost fizzy-like!
I enjoyed the little clam gelée. The gelée the clam itself was encased in was clam-my, and it was just perfectly salted and delightful.
Birthdays mean cocktails. (Who am I kidding, any night out means cocktails.) No points will be awarded to the person who correctly guesses the cocktail I ordered (and had two of).

If you guessed the ‘Peach Impediment,’ you’re right! Summertime means peaches and Cyrus used peaches wherever they could. Smart. However, I wish there’d been more peachiness – that basil and the vodka really needed something wholesome to round out this drink.
Why did I post a photo of two pots of butter?
One, I like butter. Two, the pot on the left contains goat butter! I am a new fan of goat’s milk butter – it is so delicious! It’s tangy and light and creamy, with a little less richness than regular ol’ butter. It was amazing on the moist chive scone and other great bread options, among them two kinds of sourdough.

On the right there, you’ll see our first little amuse-bouche with – you guessed it – peaches!
From top to bottom:
My only problem with the sea scallop (with watermelon and coriander broth) dish is sea scallops are so delicate and the sweetness of the watermelon very easily wiped it out. Plus, I was unable to enjoy the meatiness of a well-done scallop because, well, all I got was half a scallop.
The corn and bacon tomago dofu tasted only somewhat corny – there’s just no excuse during corn season – and once you take a spoonful with a little bit of bacon, BAM! it’s all bacon. I was so disappointed.
Somehow, my eyes missed the part about the fois gras torchon being accompanied by a huge-ass pistachio biscotti. This is the sort of dish to have between your last savory course and dessert, not at the beginning of a meal! Ugh… My palate was confused. The torchon was delightful and rich. The cherry (and supposedly ginger, but I didn’t get it) jam spread at the bottom was very sweet and accompanied the fois gras very nicely.
How did the roasted and smoked beets salad rate? You may be surprised to know that it tasted better than my fois gras torchon. It was very well-balanced.

So far, this highly-rated restaurant didn’t seem to deserve its two Michelin stars.
At least, the service was attentive and warm. (At one point, a server came by our table with the wrong dishes and I had to point out that they weren’t ours.) Our server was a very knowledgeable and friendly woman with a sense of humor. As the dinner was a birthday celebration, it was a nice change from the formal sort of service like I experienced in New York.
At this point, it was important to readjust my expectations. The dishes we’d had so far (with the exception of the canapés) were muted in flavor. It would make sense now to stop expecting robust flavors.
Adjustments made, I found the lamb roulade good, juicy. The lovely green and brown layer there did not add to the lamb at all, but they sure made it pretty. The sauce coated the bites of lamb with saltiness and richness that the meat lacked.

I think it was at this point that an awkward Asian female server – the same one who had brought the wrong dishes – came by with a little palate cleanser: some kind of frozen pop. Dammit, I hate being rushed. I also hate being told how to eat my food. She told us to “eat it in one bite.” Yeah, as opposed to snorting it?? She would make another annoying appearance later.
Anyway.
This sea bass with artichokes didn’t seem like sea bass at first bite. The flesh looked cloudy, but that may have been because it was rare. I asked the server if that was done on purpose, and it was. (This was the first time I’d seen and tasted raw sea bass.) Very interesting. I don’t what to make of the combination of fish and bland artichoke. There was so little juice and so little meatiness and they just seemed very separate.
However, my favorite part about this dish was the dashi broth. OMG I CAN DRINK A BOWL OF IT EVERY DAY. Now if only the flavor of the dashi had been inside the fish, it would’ve been a home run! It was warm and perfectly salted and comforting and smooth. If I could redesign this dish, I would remove the fish (but keep the crispy skin, of course), put another half-cup of broth, add more pea shoots, and made it an appetizer. HOME FREAKIN’ RUN.

Husband made a better choice with the beef short rib with mung bean sprouts and cherry tomato confit with hoisin sauce. I usually avoid such dishes because many restaurants go overboard with the hoisin, but this was a beautifully composed dish! The meat was juicy and tender, the cherry tomatoes added a light sweetness while the sauce contributed a rich sweetness. The sprouts gave it a fresh crispness to what would have otherwise been dense. This was a multi-level, multi-dimensional experience for the taste buds.
When I made the reservation, I’d added a little note: “Please put birthday candle on dessert plate.” At most restaurants, that’s what they do for birthdays – Michael Mina, Gary Danko, Chez Panisse, La Folie, all candles.
Cyrus? No no no no no no.

EPIC BIRTHDAY DESSERT!
Allow me to explain the contraption (brought by the aforementioned annoying Asian female server) in the top photo: On that fancy lit-up platform was a vacuum-sealed jar containing warm chocolate chip cookies. In order for the birthday boy to get to his present, he had to turn that there valve that would release air from the gold balloon into the jar!
(The Asian female server felt the need to tell him exactly how to do it. Dude, shut the hell up, will ya? We can figure it out. We both took physics in college.)
And when he got there, the cookies were warrrrrrrrrm and chewy and the chocolate chips were all melty mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Then, we were served tiny chocolate sodas which really hit the spot and were a fun counterbalance to the rich melty goodness of the chocolate chips.
But wait! There was still dessert!

Husband can’t say no to a Thai coffee. When it arrived, it was sitting over a little dish of dry ice. I, on the other hand, got the plum wine cake with strawberry. This was sweet and bright and I loved the contrast of textures. I do have to wonder why it’s so ridiculously small compared to how much Thai coffee Husband got.
Cyrus wasn’t ready to let us go yet. On the verge of exploding (or puking, both equally unpleasant), we were showed a cart covered with dainty delights, from little candies to marshmallows to truffles. Fortunately, they were for our little to-go box, bless their hearts! We could enjoy them later, after more space in our stomachs freed up.
The dessert chef deserves a medal for saving the dinner from being one big expensive and time-consuming (the restaurant’s a two-hour drive from home) disappointment. Inside that cute little jar was coffee pudding and tiny chocolate malt balls.

One last parting gift: a maple bourbon mini donut. If this were three times larger, it would’ve been a really great dessert, served with maybe a little espresso pot-de-creme.

It’s clear that one of Cyrus’ strong points is presentation. The best amuse-bouche is really an appealing and inviting appearance and Cyrus nailed it. I had issues with proportions and flavor combinations here.
The key point to enjoying the dinner is adjusting your expectations. There are no popping flavors here, nothing cutting-edge, no conversation starters; flavors here are a dense, soupy fog that comforts on a chilly summer night. Nouveau cuisine aficionados ought to look elsewhere, though if you don’t feel like cooking and want to be pampered in a cozy atmosphere, this would be the place to be.
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